Analysis of Cotton Fabrics
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An International Correspondence Schools instruction paper (Serial 503) on analyzing a cotton cloth sample so it can be reproduced. It covers finding the warp and filling patterns, picking out the weave on design paper, and deriving the harness (drawing-in) draft and chain draft, using a worked example that combines plain weave with a 5-end warp satin in a striped cloth. Later sections cover determining the face of the fabric, the warp direction, yarn twist (with a twist counter), take-up, number of beams required, and chemical and burning tests to identify fibers such as cotton, wool and silk.
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From Ralph Griswold's Digital Archive, delivered by the University of Arizona.
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