Reeding and False Twill
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A 1929 article from The Melliand on how the choice of reed pitch (number of threads per dent) can produce false twill lines in silk, artificial silk and mixed fabrics. The author uses point-paper drawdowns to predict, before reeding, which reeding is suitable for a given weave and sett. He tests 5-shaft and 8-shaft weft sateens, a 4-shaft cross twill and a 3-shaft twill with 3 to 8 threads per dent, and rates each as good, reedy or showing a twill line. He also discusses the effect of coarse weft and of yarn twist direction, and distinguishes this fault from false twill caused by faulty binding of double cloths.
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From Ralph Griswold's Digital Archive, delivered by the University of Arizona.
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