First installment of a German article by Hermann Erler on Eskimo cloths (also called Mandarin, Moskowa, Palmerston and Double), thick woolen coatings used for men's winter overcoats and some women's coats. It describes the characteristic smooth, brushed face and woolly back, then explains the weave structures: lighter qualities use a backed warp with a 4-end warp-faced and weft-faced twill, while heavy qualities use a double cloth with separate face and back weaves. Drafts and a table list four face/back/binding combinations (Abb. 6-9), and two photographs show the cloth after fulling and after finishing. The article ends with 'to be continued', with finishing to be covered later.