An article from The Textile Mercury of 2 August 1890 in its Designing column. It explains why the bottom warp is depressed further than the top warp when the shed opens, and how this affects reed marks and weft insertion. It then introduces gauze (leno) fabrics, analysing two doup-and-heald examples (Figs. 24 and 25, Designs 170 and 171) with douping plans and pegging plans. It closes with dress fabric suggestions and colouring and drafting details for a Galatea stripe, a fancy scroll stripe and two tartan checks.