Textile Documents › Publications › Publication: Textile Mercury

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Application for Patents
Application for Patents
Article · 3 pages
Three pages from The Textile Mercury of 4 May 1889 (pp. 38-40) covering British textile patents. They list patent applications filed 15-27 April 1889, specifications published, and abstracts of 1887 specifications with line drawings. The abstracts cover weaving, spinning, carding, gill boxes, pile fabrics, dyeing and finishing machinery. The first page also carries notes on Indian jute mills, new company registrations, Bombay cotton market figures and Gazette news.
Application for Patents
Application for Patents
Article · 3 pages
Three pages from The Textile Mercury of 11 May 1889 (pp. 58-60) covering the patent column and nearby trade news. It lists British patent applications filed 29 April to 4 May 1889, mostly for looms, shuttle guards, spinning and sewing machines, and dyeing apparatus. It also lists published specifications and gives abstracts of 1887 specifications, some with diagrams, including a weft stop-motion, dobbies, drop-box and shedding mechanisms, scroll tappets, yarn dyeing apparatus, a cotton willow, lace and frilling machinery, and azo dyes and mordants. The first page also carries a new-company registration (T. F. Firth and Sons, carpet manufacturers) and Gazette notices.
Application for Patents
Application for Patents
Article · 2 pages
Two pages from The Textile Mercury of 18 May 1889 listing British patent applications filed 6-11 May 1889, patent specifications published, and abstracts of specifications from December 1887. The patents cover looms, jacquard machines, carding engines, knitting machines, spinning mules, reeling machines, sewing machines and azo dyes. The page also has a list of dissolved partnerships and an advertisers' index, with engraved drawings of a traversed warp machine, spinning mule, loom picking motion, reeling machine and ring-and-traveller spindle.
Application for Patents
Application for Patents
Article · 3 pages
Three pages from The Textile Mercury of June 1, 1889 (pp. 114-116), mainly listing British patent applications filed 20-24 May 1889 and abridged specifications published, with two line diagrams of a loom shuttle-checking strap and drawings of a bobbin-winding stop-motion and a spinning mule delivery mechanism. The pages also include a closing passage on the US tariff classification of worsted versus woollen cloths, joint stock and financial news for Oldham cotton spinning companies and new companies, Gazette bankruptcy notices, and an index to advertisers.
Application for Patents
Application for Patents
Article · 3 pages
Three pages from the Textile Mercury of 15 June 1889 (pp. 150-152) covering the patents section of the trade journal. They list British patent applications filed 29 May to 1 June 1889 and notices of applications to amend dye patents held by Farbenfabriken vormals Bayer. They also list published specifications and abstracts of 1888 patents on looms, drop-box motions, spooling, carding, mules, beaverteens, quilts, woven trade marks, dyes and wool washing, with line diagrams. The pages open with bankruptcy and dissolved-partnership notices and close with an index of advertisers.
Application for Patents
Application for Patents
Article · 3 pages
Three pages from The Textile Mercury of 25 May 1889 centered on British patent news. They list patent applications filed 13-18 May 1889 (looms, reeds, shuttle guards, jacquard card punching, carding, spinning, dyeing and finishing), specifications published, and abstracts of 1888 specifications, some with drawings of an overpick loom picker, a yarn dyeing frame, a loom shuttle, a rotary dipping wheel and a wet twisting frame. The pages also carry a French duty table for textiles, company and share news for Lancashire cotton mills, Gazette bankruptcy notices, and an advertisers' index.
Application for Patents
Application for Patents
Article · 3 pages
Three pages from The Textile Mercury, 8 June 1889 (pp. 132-134), covering the patents section plus related trade news. It lists British patent applications filed 27-28 May 1889 and abstracts of specifications from January 1888, with line drawings. The abstracts cover textile machinery: carding engines and flats, jacquard harness and card punching, loom dobbies, knitting machines, spinning and ring spindles, carpet weaving, bleaching and steaming machines, and thread-spooling machines. The first page also carries cotton spinning company dividend reports, new company registrations (including a Nottingham lace-making firm) and Gazette bankruptcy notices; the last page ends with an index of advertisers.
Brooks & Doxey; Stockport King Spinning Company
Brooks & Doxey; Stockport King Spinning Company
Textile Mercury, January 2, 1892
Ephemera · 1 page
A one-page colour lithograph supplement to the Textile Mercury of 2 January 1892 showing the Stockport Ring Spinning Company's cotton mill. The print advertises Brooks & Doxey of Manchester, cotton machinists, as supplier of all the carding engines, drawing, slubbing, intermediate and roving frames, and ring spinning frames. The caption states the completed mills will hold about 106,000 spindles, with the first section of 53,000 spindles to be finished during 1892.
Chintzes and Cretonnes
Chintzes and Cretonnes
Article · 2 pages
Extracts from an Art Journal article by Lucie H. Armstrong on chintz and cretonne, reprinted in The Textile Mercury, 11 April 1891. It traces calico printing from antiquity and India to Europe, covers English duties and prohibitions, and discusses Victorian taste and William Morris's block-printed chintzes at Merton Abbey. It also mentions Hindley and Turnbull and Stockdale, with a design by Lewis F. Day. The two pages also hold unrelated trade news and market reports.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Two-page extract from The Textile Mercury containing a 'Designing' column on power-loom cloth design. It explains reversible double-weft carriage rug fabrics (Design 26, with notes on warp, weft, picks per inch and raising/finishing), a double plain alternative, and a striped worsted trousering (Design 28) with a draft and pegging plan. Page 1 also carries the end of an article on the Spitalfields silk-weaving district and notes on dyeing, including Alizarine Yellow G.G. and R. recipes for wool and cotton.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Short 1890 article from The Textile Mercury on textile design for dress fabrics and worsted coatings and trouserings. It discusses applying a conventional leaf motif (Figure 4) using sateen distribution, double plain, or extra materials, and gives yarn counts, reed, picks per inch and warp colourings for Designs 29-33. Point-paper drawdowns of Designs 29-32 and the Figure 4 motif are printed. The first page also carries a preceding column on dyeing cotton in shades from pink to prune, plus a news item on German aniline dye firms acquiring Levinstein's Manchester works.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Two pages from The Textile Mercury (18 January 1889) opening a series of textile designs for the trade. The designs cover cotton fancy dress stripes (Designs 1 and 2, with warping and pegging plans), worsted coatings (Design 34), woollen trouserings and suitings (Designs 35 and 36, including mohair spotting), and a dress fabric (Design 37). Each comes with warp and weft setts, reed counts and picks per inch. The first page also carries trade market reports and news notes from European textile centres.
Designing
Designing
Textile Mercury, January 25, 1896
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
A two-page "Designing" column from The Textile Mercury presenting new fabric designs for manufacturers. It gives two cotton designs (a 13-shaft shirting and a 12-shaft fancy dress check) with pegging plans, drafting and sett notes, plus woollen and worsted designs 38, 39 and 40 with suggested warp and weft yarns, thread counts and colouring ideas. Design 40 is a large twill-based figured pattern repeating on 64 ends and 64 picks. The page also carries short trade news items on Russian wool, Russian trade in Persia and the Merchandise Marks Act.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Two pages from the Textile Mercury of 1 February 1890 with a 'Designing' column for power-loom cloth makers. It gives pegging plans for spring dress goods in cotton, silk, linen or worsted, a design for woollen mantle cloth combining ribbed and twill sections with setts and colourings, and a figured dress fabric with semicircle motifs. Drawdown and pegging-plan grids are included. The first page also carries unrelated trade news items.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Two-page article from The Textile Mercury (8 Feb 1890) presenting new fabric designs with drawdowns and yarn/sett particulars. It covers an elongated twill worsted coating (Design 42), cheviot woollen colorings (Design 43), a double-cloth worsted suiting with a woollen back tied on an eight-end sateen principle (Design 44), and dress fabrics using camel hair with weaves A-F and Figure 6. The first page begins with the end of a piece on the Macclesfield silk trade and foreign competition.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
A two-page installment of a Textile Mercury designing series on arranging figures in woven fabrics, covering stripe arrangements, turn-over patterns, placing a figure in the centre of a square, and the all-over filling-in-a-square system. It gives sett and yarn details for dress fabrics and fancy waistcoats (Design 44), and begins a section on cotton shirtings with an 8-shaft draft, pegging plan, and notes on thread diameters. Illustrated with point-paper figures, pegging plans and drafts.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Two pages from The Textile Mercury, 22 February 1890, with the 'Designing' column on new designs for the textile trade. It continues a series on cotton shirtings, giving particulars for Design No. 2 (10 shafts, 32-end draft, reed, counts and picks) with draft and pegging plan. It then discusses the likely replacement of broad figured worsted twills for coatings and trouserings, with warp and weft colour schemes and drawdowns for Designs 45 to 49, including twills, hopsack and corkscrew weaves for worsteds and woollens. The first page also carries unrelated letters and trade notes.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Two-page "Designing" column from The Textile Mercury giving new fabric designs for manufacturers. The first page discusses Hindoo (Indian) fabrics, advising manufacturers to follow native taste in colour and geometric form, and describes a Dhooty silk border woven in Bombay with its colour scheme. The second page covers worsted stripe patterns (Design 50, built on a 7-end corkscrew weave, with warp and weft setts) and dress fabrics with silk and worsted (Design 51, Figure 9). Drawdown-style design grids accompany the text.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
A short article from The Textile Mercury presenting new dress fabric designs on point-paper grids. It discusses Design 52, a check with floral figures developed within it, and suggests how to build it in cotton, silk, or cotton warp with lustre weft. Designs 53, 54 and 55 are offered as check suggestions. It also describes a Loongee and Dhootie from Salem, Madras, a paired Indian garment cloth, with dimensions, weight, border details and a colour sequence for the border.
Designing
Designing
Textile Mercury, March 15, 1890
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Two-page installment of a series on textile design from The Textile Mercury, 15 March 1890. It gives new cotton plush designs for coverlets and bed spreads with pegging plans and drafts, and describes a Loongee and Dhootie border design from Rajahmundry, Madras, including its colors and silk and gold thread ornament. It then explains how to arrange figures in a repeat square, with Diagram A and Figures 10 and 11, and gives Design 56 as a way to work out Figure 10 using warp- and weft-flush effects.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Two pages from The Textile Mercury, 29 March 1890, with the "Designing" column presenting new fabric designs with drawdowns, drafts and pegging plans. Covers a Dhootie border from Lahore, Scotch tweed designs using the two-and-two and four-end twills with colour effects (Design 57), worsted designs 58-60 including corkscrew weave modifications, and a six-shaft cotton shirting (No. 1) with draft and pegging plan. Also includes sett and yarn particulars and colouring suggestions. The first page also carries an article on olein (oils used in wool batching and soap) and short dyeing recipes for blacks, and a note on "noir réduit" for calico printing.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
A two-page "Designing" column from The Textile Mercury presenting new fabric designs with drawdowns and setts. It covers a worsted or woollen mantle cloth check, a figured mantle or dress fabric (Figure 15), an Oxford cotton shirting with six-shaft draft and colour arrangement, and a Loongee and Dhootie border imitating Indian scarf cloth from Lahore. The second page discusses small weave effects (Designs 61-68) on 11 shafts, including upright twills, twill combinations and the 11-end sateen.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Two pages from The Textile Mercury of 12 April 1890 with a "Designing" column for power-loom manufacturers. It gives Designs 70-74, small twills on 16 shafts, and a full pegging plan and warping draft for an African (Niger) stripe cloth on 8 shafts, with reed, count, picks and colour details. It also covers a corded cloth on 12 shafts, Design 75, a six-end twill used with colour effects with warp and weft colourings, and Figure 16, a leaf motif on point paper for figured cashmere or silk dress goods. The first page also carries unrelated text on labour conference recommendations and the German woollen industry.
Designing
Designing
Textile Mercury, April 19, 1890
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Two pages from The Textile Mercury, April 19, 1890, in a series on textile designing. They give weave designs 76, 77 and 78 for silk, cotton and worsted dress fabrics, with setts, yarn counts and colourings, and cotton shirting drafts and pegging plans for Oxford shirtings. They also cover an Indian cotton counterpane from Hoshyarpur, Punjab, with border and centre layout. Page 2 also carries a notice of a loan exhibition of British-made silks in London and a news item on the Rating of Machinery Bill.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Two pages from The Textile Mercury of April 26, 1890, centered on a 'Designing' column about arranging reversed figures in textile design. It illustrates Fig. 13 and Fig. 17 (insects and branch motifs of Japanese inspiration) and Design 79, which shows striped figured cashmeres in a 5-end sateen. A short section on summer vestings in cotton gives particulars for three six-shaft patterns, covering reed, ends per inch, yarn counts and colour arrangements, with a drawdown. The pages also carry two letters to the editor, one on using flax waste by the Sutherland-Esdaile process and one on the Rating of Machinery Bill.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Two pages from the Textile Mercury's 'Designing' column presenting numbered weave designs (80-89) with drawdown grids. It covers fancy twills for woollens and worsteds with suggested yarn counts and colourings, a Bombay dhootie with a satin-on-five-shafts border, two cotton shirting patterns with warp color sequences and reed/pick counts, and a discussion of figured stripes for worsted and cotton dress fabrics. The first page also carries unrelated trade news and answers to correspondents on cotton ginning and carding.
Designing
Designing
Textile Mercury, May 10, 1890
Article · 3 pages · weaving drafts
A three-page "Designing" feature from The Textile Mercury, 10 May 1890, giving colour-and-weave designs for worsted and woollen suitings (Designs 90-95) with warp colour orders and weave notes. It also gives a Niger Stripe cloth for the African market, with reed, sett, shaft and colour details and pegging plans, and describes an Indian silk counterpane from the Punjab. Pages 2-3 carry the drawdowns, pegging plans and design diagrams. Page 1 also holds unrelated items on a German factory bill and a letter on West Indian cotton growing.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Two pages from The Textile Mercury combining a short piece on the chemical constituents of flax fibre and assorted dye and bleaching trade notes with the 'Designing' column on arranging figures in textile design repeats. The design column explains repeat construction, spot and reversed figures, and overlapping figures using diagrams and floral designs. Page 2 also gives weaving specifications for a cotton shirting on 8 shafts with draft and pegging plan, a Punjab loongee and dhootie border, and a silk and cotton check and stripe on 8 shafts.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Two pages from The Textile Mercury of 17 May 1890 with a "Designing" column on new worsted designs and a short item on Russian wools. The column discusses the use of colour with weave, with warp and weft colour schemes (Patterns I-IV) for worsteds in 2 and 2 twill and for check and stripe effects. It gives drawdown designs 95-99, some requiring sixteen shafts. It also gives instructions with threading and pegging plans for a cotton shirting, a vesting and three fancy zephyr tartan dress goods in cotton. The Russian wools item reports wool deliveries at Rostov in 1889 and prices.
Designing
Designing
Article · 3 pages · weaving drafts
Three pages from the Designing section of The Textile Mercury, 24 May 1890, with weave designs for worsted coatings and trousers, a woollen suiting, an Indian carpet, and cotton stripes and tartans. Text for Designs 100-103 explains the weave combinations (warp and weft twills, ribs, sateen/buckskin twill, nine-end twills, spot effects) with setts, yarn counts, and warp colourings. It also gives warping and draft instructions for two New Galatea stripes and a zephyr cotton tartan with silk stripe, plus a note on a Cashmere silk carpet. Drawdowns, pegging plans and a draft diagram are on pages 2-3. Page 1 also carries unrelated trade news on cotton spinners' union membership, chemical patents, and Natal industries.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Two pages from The Textile Mercury, 24 May 1890, reproducing examination questions set by the City and Guilds of London Institute. The first group covers Cloth Manufacture (wool and worsted weaving), Ordinary and Honours grades. It asks about drafts, pegging plans, tappets, dobbies and Jacquards, satins and twills, double cloth, gauze, yarn counts and cost calculations. The second group covers Linen Manufacture (flax spinning): flax cultivation, retting, scutching, hackling, carding and spinning. Some figures and point-paper design grids accompany the weaving questions.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
A two-page extract from The Textile Mercury (31 May 1890) with the 'Designing' column. It describes a summer dress fabric of cotton warp and weft in plain weave with an extra silk warp that flushes to form figures, illustrated by Designs 106, 106a and 107. It also gives pattern and draft instructions for Zephyr Tartans and a Skirting Pattern. The first page opens with the end of an article on the Derby silk and ribbon trades.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Two pages from The Textile Mercury of 7 June 1890 containing a 'Designing' column on sateens and their derivatives. It explains sateen construction principles (high ends per inch, few picks, weft lying straight) and discusses 4-, 5-, 6- and 7-end sateens with their uses in coatings, dress goods, doeskins and Venetian cloth. It also covers tying a back to a sateen face, illustrated by small drafts (Designs 108-120), and gives a linen dress design with fruit and foliage figures, with warp and weft specifications. The first page also carries unrelated trade news on the US tariff, markets and dry goods imports.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Two pages from The Textile Mercury of 14 June 1890 on textile design for power-loom dress goods. They present fancy dress and silk dress designs (No. 1, No. 2 and a 24-shaft figured design on eight-shaft satin ground) with notes on colours, yarns, reed and drafting order. A continuing sateen weaves lesson explains the eight-end sateen and its derivatives (buckskin, twilled hopsack, Mayo or Campbell twill) and how to tie backing warp or weft, with numbered design grids 120-136 and a floral design (Figure 18) for dress fabrics.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Two-page installment of the "Designing" column from The Textile Mercury, 21 June 1890, with pegging plans and specifications for new cloth designs. It covers a double-diagonal fancy cotton and silk vesting or suiting (21 shafts, 42 to the round), an Indian Dhootie border made in Bombay, and a New Oxford shirting on 12 shafts with a warp color pattern. It also discusses "drop patterns" in figure design (Figures 19, 19a and 20), with advice on improving the designs.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Two pages from The Textile Mercury (June 1890) containing the 'Designing' column, which continues a series on sateens and their derivatives, covering nine-end and ten-end sateens and their relation to twills (Designs 135-146). It also gives a fancy worsted waistcoating design with warp and weft particulars, a Galatea stripe, two linen/cotton dress designs, and a fancy cotton and silk tartan cloth, with threading drafts and pegging plans. The first page also carries dyeing recipes for wool, silk, cotton and hosiery, and an article on fixing alumina mordants on cotton, wool and silk.
Designing
Designing
Textile Mercury, January 3, 1891
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Two pages from The Textile Mercury, January 1891, centered on a 'Designing' column with new fabric designs: a 16-shaft fancy diagonal with sett suggestions for vestings, trouserings and jackets, a Dhootie border design in Hindu-inspired style, and a fancy silk vesting on a nine-shaft satin ground. A following section, 'Novelties in Worsteds and Woollens', explains how to produce diagonal stripe effects with 2-and-2 twill and weft rib/corkscrew weaves, giving warp and weft counts, reed and picks per inch. The first page also has the end of a book review on cotton machinery and rope driving, and a 'Foreign Correspondence' letter on the US textile trade and the McKinley tariff.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Two pages from The Textile Mercury of January 10, 1891, with a 'Designing' column on new woollen and worsted designs and a linen and cotton spring dress design. The column describes a reversible warp sateen effect, double plain diagonal effects, and sett, yarn and colour suggestions. It also gives warp and weft colour patterns for silk spring dress fabrics in a cassimere or 6-end twill. Page 2 has point-paper drawdowns with a working plan and drafts for the designs. The pages also include a 'Foreign Correspondence' column on US textile trade matters.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
A short article from The Textile Mercury (January 17, 1891) offering suggested designs for spring vestings, dress goods, fancy dress patterns and figured mantle cloth. It gives yarn counts, reeds, picks per inch and warp and weft colour sequences, with pegging plans and draft plans for Designs 1 to 4, a floral Sketch A, and a graph-paper figure for Design 7 meant for a 384 jacquard machine. Page 1 begins with unrelated trade news.
Designing
Designing
Textile Mercury, January 24, 1891
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Two pages from The Textile Mercury (24 January 1891) with the "Designing" feature. It presents an Indian silk-bordered dhooty from Loodianah, with a colour description and drawdown, followed by a tutorial on gauze (leno) fabrics. Three examples, Sketches A, B and C, are explained with point-paper designs, pegging plans and doup/heald drafts (Designs 8, 9, 10). Suggested fibre uses (cotton, silk, worsted, mohair) are given. The first page also carries unrelated trade news columns.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Two pages from The Textile Mercury of 31 January 1891 (p. 81) with a trade-journal column on cloth design. It gives pegging plans and drafts with warp and weft counts, reed and color arrangements for union cloths of linen and cotton, and for fancy stripe and fancy dress goods for spring. A technical piece on the finishing of woollen cloths explains how weave structure (two-and-two twill, four-and-four twill, weft rib, double plain) affects shrinkage and milling, and how yarn twist direction relates to twill direction. The pages also open with a letter on drawing-frame draughts and a New York report on the Passavant glove appraisal case.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Two pages from The Textile Mercury of 7 February 1891 (pp. 98-99) containing the 'Designing' column. It gives a new 21-shaft design for fancy Oxford and Harvard shirtings, with pegging plans and a detailed warp colour and draft sequence (80 ends per inch of 24's twist, 64 picks of 16's weft). It continues a series on the finishing of woollens, covering weaving, scouring and milling, and ends with a note on novelty double cloths (Designs 11 and 12) combining a 2/2 twill worsted with a plain woollen stripe or check. Short trade notices and letters to the editor about cotton disputes, cotton drawing and loom queries are also on the pages.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
A two-page "Designing" column from The Textile Mercury, 14 February 1891, giving designs for power-loom dress and mantle fabrics. It presents a new fancy dress cord with full design, draft and pegging plan, with sett, yarn and colour suggestions. It also covers double-cloth novelties (Designs 13 and 14) and worsted mantle cloths (Designs 15 and 16, buckskin, double plain and warp rib), with warp and weft particulars and drafts and pegging plans.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Two pages from the Textile Mercury of 21 February 1891 with a 'Designing' section on new designs for the spring season. It gives fancy diagonal dress fabrics (Nos. 1-4) and fancy spring vestings, with warp and weft counts, ends and picks per inch, colour schemes, stripe and check sequences, and shaft drafts. Drawdowns, a pegging plan and a draft are shown for the vestings and for Design 17, a weft-flush twill with an extra weft figure. The first page also carries unrelated trade news and a paper on machine stoking of boiler furnaces.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Two pages from The Textile Mercury (28 February 1891) in its 'Designing' column. They cover new designs for dress goods and shirtings with warp and weft colour patterns, reed counts and pegging plans: a light zephyr check, a fancy checked stripe, a two-stripe velvet, diagonal shirtings, and three velvet cords for limited tappet machinery. The pages also include a continuation of 'The Finishing of Woollens' (tentering and raising) and a discussion of developing a floral figure for dress or mantle cloth with extra warps or wefts.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Two pages from the Textile Mercury (March 7, 1891) with the 'Designing' column of new fabric designs for cotton and worsted manufacturers. They give sett, yarn counts, warp and weft colour patterns, drafts and pegging plans for a fancy cotton stripe, uncut corduroy cloth, summer vestings, fancy dress spot, and worsted designs 18 and 19. The text also discusses colour in Scotch tweeds for men's wear and urges designers to take inspiration from nature.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Two pages of the 'Designing' column from The Textile Mercury, 14 March 1891, giving new fabric designs with pegging plans, drafts and colour/sett particulars. Pages cover a fancy plaid in cotton and silk, striped galateas and drill for girls' sailor costumes, a satin-order diagonal on 16 shafts for cotton dress goods and union cloths, fancy twill checks, woollen designs derived from the two-and-two twill with cutting-thread stripe effects, and a fancy waistcoating. Warp and weft colour orders, yarn counts and ends/picks per inch are given for each.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Two pages from The Textile Mercury, 21 March 1891, with a 'Designing' column of colour-and-weave patterns for woollen and cotton cloth. It gives warp and weft colour arrangements for galateas and spring shirtings (four shafts, cassimere twill), then fancy dress stripes and fashionable checks on six shafts with pegging plans and drafting instructions, and a worsted coating check (Design 23). The pages also include the continuation of an article on the finishing of woollens (raising, cutting, boiling and crabbing, pressing) and short news items on Levant wool and spider silk.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Two pages from The Textile Mercury of April 4, 1891, giving design notes for the cloth trade. The first part offers warp color patterns for cotton dress figures, zephyr stripes and ginghams, with reed, yarn counts and ends. The second part, 'Woollens and Worsteds', discusses Designs 25, 26 and 27 (diagonal checks, an 8-end sateen with weft rib, hopsack with warp rib), with suggested yarns, reed and picks per inch. Weave plans, a pegging plan and a draft for a 20-shaft dress figure appear on page 2. The scan also begins with unrelated trade news.
Designing
Designing
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Two pages from the Textile Mercury of 11 April 1891 with the weekly 'Designing' column of new fabric designs for the trade. It gives yarn counts, reeds and picks per inch for a figured mantle cloth (Design 28), a 20-shaft dress goods draft, coloured fancies, zephyr lawns, stripes and plain muslins, with warp colour schemes and pegging plans. A short note on the Oriental carpet exhibition at Vienna precedes the column.
251 documents found

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