A 1917 trade article by Charles M. Schwartz on how shirting fabric patterns are designed in American mills. It traces changing fashions in stripes, plaids and colors from 1905 to 1917, including the effect of wartime dye scarcity and the introduction of bleach-fast colors. It also contrasts the old method of weaving sample "blankets" with tie-ins against designers painting patterns on paper using a reed-card and percentage chart. Illustrated with charts of cloth and painted design samples.