Weaving of Lengthwise Pleats
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An article by M. Loescher of Germany explaining how lengthwise pleats can be woven directly into cloth using twill weaves, rather than pressed or sewn afterward. It gives step-by-step twill-group sequences on 6- and 8-harness threadings for several pleat designs (Figs. 1-8), with pleat dimensions, reed spacing and shrinkage allowances, yarn choices (coarser warp than filling), and notes on satin weaves, color effects and finishing. Most designs have repeats that need a Jacquard loom or many harnesses.
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From Ralph Griswold's Digital Archive, delivered by the University of Arizona.
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