Textile Documents › Authors › Author: Robert Frederick Heartz

7 documents found
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Damask on Four Harnesses
Damask on Four Harnesses
Monograph · 47 pages · weaving drafts
A 1958 monograph by Robert Fredric Heartz explaining how to weave damask-type figured cloth on a four-harness loom using split (long-eye) heddles and a shed-rod pick-up technique. It opens with a history of damask, the draw loom, the Jacquard and the Paisley shawl, then gives loom preparation, tie-up, pick-up methods, designing on squared paper, yarns and color. Numbered hand-drawn plates show loom modifications, tie-ups, and design motifs, including a Whig Rose adaptation, Summer and Winter, and cat tracks. It ends with notes on Paisley shawl production and an ad for a correspondence course in advanced handweaving.
Further Notes on the Speck Drafts
Further Notes on the Speck Drafts
Robert Frederick Heartz · Handicrafter, November-December 1931
Article · 6 pages · weaving drafts
Follow-up article by R. F. Heartz giving full weaving directions for several of the Speck Drafts, which were first published only in brief in the May-June issue. It provides tie-up and treadling sequences for Drafts 5, 7, 9, 11, 53 and 54, with variations in overshot, double-face and summer and winter, in solid and two-color versions. It closes with a comparison to the John Landes Book of Drafts as arranged by Mrs. M. M. Atwater. The scan also includes the end of an article on the pros and cons of fly-shuttle weaving.
Gauze Weaving
Gauze Weaving
Robert Frederick Heartz · Handicrafter, January-February 1930
Article · 5 pages
A 1930 magazine article explaining how to weave plain gauze (leno-type) cloth on a four-harness loom using doup heddles and a slackener. It covers the doup and standard heddle frames, threading order, tie-up for jack and roller looms, and the weaving procedure, with line diagrams of the shed arrangements. It also suggests stripe and check variations and uses of the cloth as a foundation for embroidery and rugs, illustrated with items made at Kings Park State Hospital.
Mattor
Mattor
Article · 7 pages · weaving drafts
An article from The Weaver (October 1936) by Robert Frederic Heartz on "Mattor," a Scandinavian-style weave built on plain-weave sheds using alternate shots of fine and heavy weft, with pattern created by dropping a fine shot. It begins with a survey of basic weaves, then explains the technique with a warp-colored check example (Drafts 1, 1A, 1B) and treadling instructions. It presents a series of drafts (Nos. 2-17) taken from Danish, Finnish, Norwegian and Swedish sources for 4, 6, 8 and 10 harnesses, with notes on uses such as runners, rugs, upholstery, pillows and dress fabric.
A Sixteenth-Century Spanish Linen
A Sixteenth-Century Spanish Linen
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
A short article from The Handicrafter describing a sixteenth-century Spanish linen table runner woven in overshot, sent to the author to be copied and analyzed. Heartz discusses the origins and classification of weaves, quotes Mildred Stapley Byne on Spanish weaving, and notes the equivalent names for the structure (Colonial Overshot, Simple Damask, Russian Diaper). The second page gives the threading draft and treadling table, along with yarn details (linen warp at 30 ends per inch, loosely plied pattern wefts in tan and blue) and Bernat linen yarn substitutes.
Variations in Overshot Weaving
Variations in Overshot Weaving
Article · 3 pages · weaving drafts
A 1931 article from The Handicrafter by R. F. Heartz on alternative treadlings for overshot drafts, inspired by Scandinavian practice. It covers the Pine Cone pattern and Monk's Belt drafts, with treadling directions for a lace-like effect (pattern weft treadled singly with tabby only between blocks) and for building colored blocks on a plain-weave ground. It includes materials and sett suggestions (fine cotton warp at 32 epi, Perle cotton wefts), draft figures and photographs of sample fabrics.
Weaving the Scotch Tweeds
Weaving the Scotch Tweeds
Article · 7 pages · weaving drafts
A 1936 article from The Weaver on handweaving Scotch and Irish-style tweeds with imported Scotch yarns supplied by Bernat. It reviews hand spinning and home finishing of wool, then gives directions for a series of 4-harness twill tweeds (regular twill, broken crow, herringbone, diaper, a small overshot and diamond weave), including treadlings, color arrangements, and check and plaid variations. It closes with practical guidance on yarn weights, sett, yardage estimation, take-up, shrinkage and garment yardage, and a page of ten drafts and tie-ups.
7 documents found

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