Textile Documents › Authors › Author: R. J. Charleston

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Coptic Wool-Weaves with Patterns in Undyed Linen
Coptic Wool-Weaves with Patterns in Undyed Linen
Article · 25 pages
R. J. Charleston studies Coptic Egyptian woolen bands woven of blue or red wool with patterns in undyed linen, used as tunic ornaments in the 6th to 8th centuries. He describes their structure (plain-weave wool ground with brocaded linen pattern weft), yarn twists, thread counts and selvedges, and reports a full dissection of one piece in his own collection. He argues against embroidery and hand-brocading and concludes that the bands were made on a draw-loom, comparing their motifs with contemporary Egyptian silks. The article has plates of bands from the Bankfield Museum, Halifax, a technical diagram and pattern charts, a descriptive list of the pieces with thread counts, and extensive notes.
Eighteenth Century Weaver's Pattern Book
Eighteenth Century Weaver's Pattern Book
Article · 18 pages · weaving drafts
An article by R. J. Charleston describing an eighteenth-century weaver's pattern book kept at the Blaise Castle House Museum near Bristol. The book belonged to Timothy Bent, a Gloucestershire linen weaver, and mixes weaving drafts with riddles, recipes and verses. The article discusses the more than sixty pattern drafts, their names (Huckaback, Calomanco, Bird's Eye, Dubble Sink and Cater, and others), and how the attached fabric samples compare with the drafts. It closes with a short history of the Gloucestershire linen-weaving industry and its decline by about 1890. Photographs of samples and plates reproducing numbered drafts 1-61 with captions are included.

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