Textile Documents › Authors › Author: Franz Müller

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Bindungs- und Materialeffekte in kunstseidenen Stoffen [Weave and Material Effects in Rayon Fabrics]
Bindungs- und Materialeffekte in kunstseidenen Stoffen [Weave and Material Effects in Rayon Fabrics]
Article · 3 pages · German
A 1927 article from Melliand's Textilberichte by Franz Müller on how weave structure and material interact in rayon (Kunstseide) fabrics. It covers rayon warp preparation and sizing, the problems of tight weaves and high warp density, and the use of checkerboard (Damenbrett) Jacquard patterns, especially for neckties, with satin, taffeta and rib weaves. It also discusses warp- and weft-direction effect stripes and their crossing points, illustrated by a pattern figure and a weave drawdown. The scan also includes the end of an article on Jacquard card care and the start of Josef Funke's article on plain weave, which covers shedding on hand and power looms.
Bindungs- und Materialeffekte in kunstseidenen Stoffen [Weave and Material Effects in Rayon Fabrics]
Bindungs- und Materialeffekte in kunstseidenen Stoffen [Weave and Material Effects in Rayon Fabrics]
Article · 2 pages · German · weaving drafts
The concluding part of Franz Müller's article on weave-structure and material effects in rayon (Kunstseide) fabrics. It discusses block-type binding effects where warp and weft color stripes cross in plain weave, and how jacquard figures change binding (e.g., satin figure on plain ground, twill on satin ground). It also covers the fragility of rayon warps, low warp densities, the use of unplied rayon, and rayon's prospects for replacing natural silk. Figures show binding diagrams and fabric samples. The scan begins with the end of an unrelated piece on standardizing jacquard machines, cylinders and punched cards.
The Use of Weave and Material for Effects in Artificial Silk Fabrics
The Use of Weave and Material for Effects in Artificial Silk Fabrics
Article · 5 pages
A 1929 trade article by F. Müller on how weave and material interact in artificial silk (rayon) fabrics, especially Jacquard cloths for items such as cravats. It discusses the difficulties of using artificial silk as warp (sizing, close sets, sagging threads), the use of satin, taffeta, twill and plain weaves, draughts-board and block patterns, shot effects from warp and weft stripes, and appliqué-style figuring by changing weave. It closes with comments on artificial silk replacing natural silk and organzine/tram. Six figures show weave plans and Jacquard patterns, but there are no standard weaving drafts.

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