Textile Documents › Publications › Publication: Sampson Low, Marston, Searle, & Rivington, London

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The History and Principles of Weaving by Hand and by Power
The History and Principles of Weaving by Hand and by Power
Book · 458 pages · weaving drafts
Alfred Barlow's 1878 treatise covers the history and mechanics of weaving by hand and by power, reprinted with additions from the journal Engineering, plus a chapter on lace-making machinery from the Journal of the Society of Arts. It opens with a chronological account of weaving and the textile trades, then covers ancient looms, warping, the hand loom, the fly shuttle, twills, satins, double cloth, diaper weaving, the draw loom, the Jacquard machine and harness, gauze and swivel weaving, pile fabrics and carpets. Later chapters treat the power loom and its motions (tappets, let-off, take-up, weft stop, shuttles, drop boxes), the needle loom, Jacquard card preparation and weaver's calculations, the levers lace frame, bobbin-net machine, stocking loom, and fibres and their preparation. It ends with a summary and statistical appendix of British textile factories. Hundreds of mechanical line drawings and a few weaving drafts illustrate it.
Lacis
Lacis
Book · 158 pages
A 1909 English instruction book on lacis (filet brodé), the art of darning patterns onto hand-netted ground, by the author known as Carità. It combines a historical survey of lacis, with sixteenth-century pattern books such as Vinciolo and Mignerak, museum examples, and symbolism, with chapters on flax, spinning and distaffs and on the history of nets. The practical section covers netting squares and oblong bands, gauges and needles, attaching the net to a frame, and the Point de Toile and Point de Reprise darning stitches. It is illustrated with numbered halftones and line drawings of historical pieces, tools and hand positions.
The Theory & Practice of the Art of Designing Fancy Cotton & Woollen Cloths From Sample
The Theory & Practice of the Art of Designing Fancy Cotton & Woollen Cloths From Sample
Book · 70 pages · weaving drafts
A nineteenth-century American manual for mill designers on working out fancy cotton and woollen cloth from a sample of the finished fabric. It explains how to pick out a draft from a sample, reduce drafts, and calculate wool quantities, spooling, heddles for each harness, and reed numbers. Fifty numbered drafts are described one by one with their yarn sizes, colours, warp counts and harness arrangements, and the book closes with tables of yarn sizes for wool and cotton. Nine plates at the end show the straight drafts, drawing-in drafts, reduced drafts and loom chains.

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