Textile Documents › Publications › Publication: Lily Mills

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The Arithmetic of Weaving
The Arithmetic of Weaving
Lily Mills, c. 1975
Monograph · 8 pages
A Lily Mills booklet explaining how to calculate yarn requirements for hand weaving. It covers yarn count systems for cotton, wool, linen, silk and rayon, yardage per pound, plied yarn notation, and worked examples for figuring warp ends, shrinkage allowance, and yarn to order for yardage and place mats and napkins, including an overshot estimate. The second half is a table of yarn count and Lily's Weaving Chart, listing Lily yarns with yards per pound and tube, colors, reed settings, and suggested uses, plus novelty yarns.
Discussion on Double Weave
Discussion on Double Weave
Monograph · 4 pages · weaving drafts
A short instructional booklet by Colonel John S. Fishback, Lily Mills' weaving consultant, based on notes for a Venice Weavers Guild workshop. It briefly surveys what double weave can mean on a four-harness loom (double thickness, double width, tubular cloth), then gives step-by-step directions for the non-reversible Finn Weave pickup technique on a 196-end practice warp. It includes a threading draft, tie-up, and a cartoon for a practice sample, plus closing tips on loom choice, warp tension, and cartoon design.
The Sett and Weaving of Tartans
The Sett and Weaving of Tartans
Monograph · 48 pages
A 1959 instructional booklet by Mary E. Black, published by Lily Mills, on understanding and handweaving Scottish tartans. It explains the difference between a plaid and a tartan, the clan and district origins of setts, and the block system for threading and treadling setts on a 2/2 twill. Step-by-step projects (Menzies, Buchanan, MacLeod, Johnstone, MacPherson, Mackintosh, Dress Stewart) give materials, sleying, warp setts, block order and finished sizes for place mats, napkins, scarves, skirts and dress lengths in Lily cotton and wool yarns. Also covers beating to keep a 45-degree diagonal, selvedges, and finishing.
Twining on the Lily Bag Loom
Twining on the Lily Bag Loom
Monograph · 8 pages · weaving drafts
A Lily Mills booklet on making twined bags on the Lily bag loom, a simple finger-weaving technique like that used by American Indians. It covers suitable warp and weft yarns, warping the frame with lark's head knots, making butterflies, half and full twists, color patterning, and finishing with fringes and handles. Project instructions are given for the Bag for Beginners, Jute-Tone Bag, Beige and Coral Bag, and Bird Bag, with a pattern chart for the bird motif and photographs of finished bags.
Weaving Classics: Original Lily Weaver's Work Sheets; Nos. 1-23 - 1930-1950
Weaving Classics: Original Lily Weaver's Work Sheets; Nos. 1-23 - 1930-1950
Monograph · 30 pages · weaving drafts
A 1976 reprint of the complete series of 23 Lily Weaver's Work Sheets, issued by Lily Mills between 1930 and 1950. Each sheet gives a project with weave, reed, warp and weft yarns, threading draft, tie-up, treadling and finishing notes. Projects include draperies, scarves, a bag, place mats, napkins, a luncheon cloth, a crib blanket, an apron, towels, neckties, an overshot skirt and rugs. Designers include Edward Worst, Irene Beaudin, Lucy Morgan, Harriet Douglas, Mary E. Black and Mary M. Atwater, mostly associated with Penland School of Handicrafts.
5 documents found

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