Textile Documents › Authors › Author: W. E. Shinn

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Leno Weaving and Design, Part 1
Leno Weaving and Design, Part 1
Article · 6 pages · weaving drafts
First part of a serial article on leno (gauze) weaving from The Melliand, explaining how warp threads cross one another and how steel doups are used to produce the crossing. It describes the plain steel doup and the slotted (super) doup, with a marquisette loom attachment, a dobby head with jumper motion, and drawing-in and chain drafts. Examples include marquisette, warp stripe, checked and filling-border leno, and a leno and figured rib curtain fabric. The article ends 'To be continued'.
Leno Weaving and Design, Part 2
Leno Weaving and Design, Part 2
Article · 7 pages · weaving drafts
Second installment of a series on leno weaving and design from The Melliand, covering fancy allover leno effects with multiple doup sets and ground harnesses, figured effects combining plain weave and leno, and clipped spot patterns woven on box looms. It explains doup, slotted heddle, jumper and slackener mechanisms, double yokes, and ways of catching roving filling at the selvedges, with drawing-in and chain drafts for each sample. It closes with tubular leno fabrics woven with double doup mountings, used for hosiery dyeing, laundry and vegetable bags.
Leno Weaving and Design, Part 3
Leno Weaving and Design, Part 3
Article · 6 pages · weaving drafts
Third installment of a series on leno weaving, covering design of figured three-end leno fabrics woven with slotted steel doups on dobby looms. It explains the open and crossed shed positions of the slotted doup and describes several sample fabrics (diamond, all-over, scroll and quadri-symmetrical patterns) with drawing-in drafts and chain drafts. The final pages give practical loom settings for leno, including harness and doup standard heights, leasing, slackener setting, selvages, and reeds.

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