Textile Documents › Authors › Author: Philip Ainsworth Means

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Group of Ancient Peruvian Fabrics
Group of Ancient Peruvian Fabrics
Article · 16 pages
Philip Ainsworth Means describes a group of twenty-four small ancient Peruvian textile specimens (catalogued 540-A to 540-X) from the collection of H. A. Elsberg. The pieces are assigned to the Tiahuanaco (c. 600-900 A.D.) and Late Chimu (c. 900-1400 A.D.) periods of the Peruvian coast. Each entry gives size, fibers, colors, weave (double-cloth, basket weave, tapestry with kelim slots or jours, dropped weft, fringes), design and a stylistic date. Plates reproduce several of the specimens, and a short conclusion notes the collection's blue and green dyes, bast fibers, fringes and an unusual brocade-like technique in 540-G.
Series of Ancient Andean Textiles
Series of Ancient Andean Textiles
Article · 25 pages
Philip Ainsworth Means introduces ancient Andean civilization and textile art, covering the chronology of coastal and highland cultures, simple looms and tools, cotton and camelid wool fibers, dyes, and decorative trends. He then describes ten specimens, mostly from his own collection: six tapestries, three brocades and one double-faced cloth. The discussion focuses on the kelim (returned weft) slit technique, the structure of brocade on a plain-weave or gauze ground, and thread counts, colors and probable periods. Illustrations include photographs of each specimen, Crawford's diagrams of weft-interlocking methods (Figures 1-6) and a brocade structure diagram (Figure 7).

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