Textile Documents › Authors › Author: J. A. Martinelli

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Toile de Soie -- Part I
Toile de Soie -- Part I
Article · 4 pages
Part I of a series on "Toile de Soie," a group of medium-weight taffeta fabrics woven from spun silk (and sometimes raw silk) that wash well without shrinking. It defines the term and explains why washability suits modern sportswear, blouses and shirtings. It then traces the French version, including its use as airplane cloth in World War I, and gives a construction table for Petite Reine, Toile Deauville and Forta Crepe. It closes with finishing notes and a Lever Brothers washability test, and previews the next installment on American versions.
Toile de Soie -- Part II
Toile de Soie -- Part II
J. A. Martinelli · The Melliand, February 1930
Article · 3 pages
Second part of a trade-journal article on Toile de Soie, covering the American version of these washable spun silk fabrics. It describes silk broadcloth (taffeta with spun silk warp and Canton tram filling), crepe-filled broadcloths, striped broadcloths, Shantung with spun silk warp, and heavier coarse two-ply toiles. Fabric construction tables give yarn sizes, twist, ends per inch and weave, and three swatch illustrations are included.
Toile de Soie -- Part III
Toile de Soie -- Part III
Article · 3 pages
Third installment of a series on Toile de Soie, light washable silk fabrics for blouses, sport dresses and shirtings. J. A. Martinelli describes six American spun silk constructions developed in a New York studio, including taffeta, dobby-effect, shantung and a Celanese/spun silk blend. The article has sketches of recent French dobby effects, swatch photographs, a table of yarn sizes, twist, ends per inch and weave for each sample, and a photograph of the David shop in Paris.

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