Textile Documents › Authors › Author: Ina Vanstan

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Brocades or Embroideries? Seventeen Textiles from Pachacamac, Peru
Brocades or Embroideries? Seventeen Textiles from Pachacamac, Peru
Article · 26 pages
Study of seventeen wool-on-cotton patterned textiles from the temple site of Pachacamac, Peru, collected by Max Uhle and held by the University Museum, University of Pennsylvania. The author examines whether each piece is brocade (woven supplementary yarns) or embroidery (sewn), finding two clear brocades, three clear embroideries, and the rest a mixture or indeterminate. It describes the design types (reversed diagonal bands, diapered repeats, simple repeats, rectangular block figures), colors, yarn spin and diameters, and construction details. A table of yarn data and many photographs and motif drawings are included, and the author argues for finding looms with unfinished cloth to resolve the classification.
Peruvian Tapestry with a Knotted Ground
Peruvian Tapestry with a Knotted Ground
Article · 13 pages
Technical study of a single pre-Columbian Peruvian textile (Florida State University Museum specimen 1-597) that combines polychrome wool tapestry with a brown cotton openwork ground made of knotted, non-woven "weft" yarns looped around pairs of warps. The article describes the fabric's dimensions, plain-weave remnant, hexagonal tapestry framework with bird motifs, and tapestry border with anthropomorphic and fish figures. It covers yarn analysis (fiber, ply, twist, diameter, counts), color sequences, probable construction on the loom, and design analysis. A yarn-detail table with Maerz & Paul color classifications and an appendix of references on Peruvian openwork fabrics are included.

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