Textile Documents › Authors › Author: E. H. Doute

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Layouts and Calculations for Rayon Fabrics
Layouts and Calculations for Rayon Fabrics
E. H. Doute · The Melliand, January 1931
Article · 4 pages · weaving drafts
Article by E. H. Doute giving worked fabric constructions for rayon weaving, with reed, ends per inch, yarn denier and twist, warp layout, and shaft entering for each. Three examples are covered: an all-rayon surface-printed flat crepe on 6 shafts, an all-celanese satin and Gro de Londre stripe on 18 shafts, and an all-rayon louisine plaid for neckwear. Figures include cloth photographs, threading diagrams, and cloth weave and harness chain drafts.
Manufacturing a Fancy Stripe De Chine
Manufacturing a Fancy Stripe De Chine
E. H. Doute · The Melliand, February 1930
Article · 5 pages · weaving drafts
Technical article on manufacturing a fancy stripe crepe de chine in an all-silk ground with a 300 denier rayon stripe, woven on two warp beams. It covers loom setup, reed and bobbin specifications, warping, creeling and beaming, the fabric construction (reed 32 dents, 68 picks per inch), warp layout, total ends, and an eight-shaft skip draft in two harness sets. It closes with notes on weaving speed, humidity and mill cost per yard.
Principles of Velvet Construction -- Chiffon Velvet
Principles of Velvet Construction -- Chiffon Velvet
E. H. Doute · The Melliand, January 1932
Article · 3 pages
Technical article on mounting the harness and warp beams for weaving double (face-to-face) velvet, with emphasis on the warp let-off and cloth take-up motions. It compares a semi-positive ratchet and worm-gear let-off (Fig. 1) with a spring-and-lever rope-friction let-off (Fig. 2), tracing the ground warp and pile warp paths through rollers, lease rods, stop motion and harness. It also discusses how filling diameter and humidity affect tension, and the handling of rayon pile ends and crepe ground warp in chiffon velvet.
Technology of Velvet Construction
Technology of Velvet Construction
E. H. Doute · The Melliand, November 1931
Article · 2 pages · weaving drafts
Part one of an article on the construction of transparent chiffon velvet woven as double cloth, in which a knife cuts the pile threads between the top and bottom cloths. It gives the full warping disposition (Japan crepe ground, viscose rayon pile, spun silk edges and binders), reed and filling specifications, and shaft-by-shaft entering instructions for edges, body and pile. Fig. I shows the cutting principle, Fig. II the harness draft and Fig. III the weave pattern for cam set-up. The article ends with "To be continued".
4 documents found

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