Textile Documents › Authors › Author: Thomas R. Ashenhurst

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An Album of Textile Designs Containing Upwards of 7,000 Patterns Suitable for Fabrics of Every Description
An Album of Textile Designs Containing Upwards of 7,000 Patterns Suitable for Fabrics of Every Description
Book · 222 pages · weaving drafts
A Victorian pattern book by Thomas R. Ashenhurst, head master of the Bradford Technical School, presenting over 7,000 numbered weave patterns for textile fabrics. The patterns are printed as small black-and-white drawdowns and grouped by the number of ends in the repeat, from 7 up to 16, with a draft at the start of each series. A preface and introduction explain how the patterns are classified and indexed. They also show how to combine them, for example in stripes that put one pattern in the ground and another in the stripe, by using straight and broken drafts on the heralds. Cross-references under each pattern link related patterns, and many are based on ordinary twills.
Ashenhurst's Cloth Structure Tables
Ashenhurst's Cloth Structure Tables
Book · 13 pages
A booklet of cloth structure tables compiled by Thomas R. Ashenhurst, giving the minimum, optimum and maximum ends per inch for plain cloth in many combinations of warp and weft counts. Separate tables cover worsted, cotton or spun silk, and woolen yarns, and several mixed combinations. The text includes a preface and rules for changing pattern (twill and satin), finding picks per inch, changing cloth weight or yarn count, and calculating folded-yarn counts, average counts and yarn twist. A table of thread diameters for cotton, worsted and woolen yarns is also included.
Design in Textile Fabrics
Design in Textile Fabrics
Book · 271 pages · weaving drafts
A technical manual from Cassell's Manuals of Technology on the principles of designing woven textile fabrics, combining decoration with sound cloth structure. It covers yarn structure, twills and their rearrangement and combination, stripes and checks, double and multi-ply cloths, figured cloths, extra warp and weft figuring, lappet weaving, gauze and net, and pile fabrics such as velveteen, plush and chenille. It includes about 108 diagrams, many point-paper drawdowns, and several coloured plates of printed or woven patterns.
Lectures on Practical Weaving and Cloth Dissection
Lectures on Practical Weaving and Cloth Dissection
Book · 636 pages · weaving drafts
A comprehensive late-Victorian textbook on power-loom weaving and cloth analysis by Thomas R. Ashenhurst, a Bradford Technical College textile head master. Fourteen lectures cover winding, warping, beaming, drafting, plain weaving, beat-up, picking, shuttle box motions, shedding (tappets, dobbies), take-up and let-off motions, Jacquards and harnesses, card cutting, loom adjuncts, special looms (lappet, webbing, carpet, plush), and cloth dissection and testing. It is heavily illustrated with engraved mechanical diagrams of loom mechanisms, and has period advertisements from loom and bobbin makers at the front and back.
A Practical Treatise on Weaving and Designing Textile Fabrics
A Practical Treatise on Weaving and Designing Textile Fabrics
Book · 437 pages · weaving drafts
A late-Victorian textbook on power-loom weaving and the design of woven textile fabrics, written by a technical instructor for students of the trade. It opens with a history of textile manufacture, then covers loom mechanisms (tappets, healds, Jacquard, picking, take-up, let-off, stop motions), followed by designing on point paper: twills, satins, spot figures, double cloth, Jacquard figures, pile or plush, gauze, and honeycomb cloths. Later chapters treat setting of reeds, yarn counts and calculations, colour theory, and appendices on thread structure and the Jacquard machine and draw loom. Illustrated with many figures and about 65 pages of drafts and drawdowns; includes period advertisements for loom makers at the front and back.
A Treatise on Textile Calculations and the Structure of Fabrics
A Treatise on Textile Calculations and the Structure of Fabrics
Book · 240 pages · weaving drafts
Fifth edition of Ashenhurst's treatise on the arithmetic of textile manufacture and the relationship between yarn size and cloth structure. The first part covers yarn counts in the cotton, worsted, silk, linen and woollen systems, doubling and mixing yarns, twist, sett systems, and calculating the weight and cost of warp, weft and finished fabric, including striped and checked patterns. The second part treats the structure of fabrics: thread diameters, balance of plain and twilled cloths, adjusting ends and picks per inch when changing pattern, counts or weight, with tables of yarn diameters. Appendices on cloth structure add further worked examples and some small twill drawdowns. Advertisements and a design paper price list appear at the front and back.
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