Issue 22 (December 1999) of the Complex Weavers Medieval Textiles Study Group newsletter, edited by Nancy McKenna. It covers group business (roster errata, a proposed 2001 twill sample calendar, back-issue and copyright policy, and a handout on ikat), followed by articles on Inca/Peruvian textiles and backstrap looms, weaving a 2/2 twill 'paled sey' wall hanging at 48 epi for a reconstructed medieval merchant's house, and Guatemalan and other spindle whorls. It also includes an article on pre-Columbian American yarns, with yucca fiber preparation, the first part of Carolyn Priest-Dorman's annotated bibliography of sources on Roman, medieval and Renaissance weaves, and a membership form.

Issue 23 (March 2000) of the Complex Weavers Medieval Textile Study Group newsletter. It opens with coordinator business: newsletter costs, address changes and an erratum for a weaving draft sent with the previous issue. Articles cover Hawaiian kapa (tapa) bark cloth making, based on a Field Museum handout, Peggy Hoyt's essay on 9000 years of flax and linen in European culture, and Harry McCoy's overview of draw harness types, uses, construction and weaving considerations. The rest is a continued annotated bibliography (Carolyn Priest-Dorman) of archaeological and medieval textile sources, an update on the December 2000 twill sample project, and a list of upcoming events.

Issue 24 (June 2000) of the Complex Weavers Medieval Textiles Study Group newsletter. It covers subscription business, member sample updates, and weaving drafts of 2/2 broken twill, honeycomb/Wabengewebe and related structures from NESAT III finds at Coppergate, York. Carolyn Priest-Dorman writes on the kreuzköper (cross twill) with thread counts and comparative finds from Britain, Germany, Sweden and Lithuania. Lynn Meyer contributes a research paper on the textiles of Islamic Spain (linen, cotton, wool, silk, dyes, trade) with bibliography, and the issue ends with upcoming events.

Issue 25 (September 2000) of the Complex Weavers Medieval Textiles Study Group newsletter, coordinated by Nancy McKenna. It covers the twill sample exchange update, a note on ISSN numbers and copyright, and a continuing series on Aztec textiles with a pick-up weaving method and pelican motif. It also has excerpts from an online discussion on women in medieval weaving guilds, a note on wool cards and teasels, and a corrected Halvorstn #5 pebble weave draft. Carolyn Priest-Dorman's article on 2/1 twills (rippenköper) comes with two drafts and a bibliography, and the issue ends with upcoming events and a Piers Plowman fulling verse.

Issue 26 (December 2000) of the Complex Weavers Medieval Textiles Study Group newsletter. It reproduces workshop notes on weft, warp and compound ikat: definitions, the types of ikat, methods for making weft skeins, warp ikat procedure, dyeing experiments and warp shifting devices. It also gives technical details for the year's calendar samples (Rippenkoeper, 3/3 and 2/1 twill, 3/1 twill, broken diamond twill, and a Wabengewebe honeycomb with twill ground), with drafts for the Coppergate samples, and lists upcoming events and newsletter deadlines.

Issue 27 (March 2001) of the Complex Weavers Medieval Textiles Study Group newsletter, coordinated by Nancy M. McKenna. It covers the 2001 sample exchange, members' replies to a survey, and an essay on making modern clothing from medieval-draft cloth. The bulk is a long compiled article on women's clothing in Kievan Rus (10th-15th centuries), covering garments, headdresses, jewelry, fabrics, dyes, embroidery and footwear. It also includes Carolyn Priest-Dorman's article on warp-float weaves with deflected wefts (Wabengewebe) with drafts for Alladorf 60 and Jorvik 1336, and McKenna's article on Coptic textiles in North European graves with drafts, sources, and upcoming exhibitions.

Issue 28 (June 2001) of the Complex Weavers Medieval Textiles Study Group newsletter. It includes Jacqueline James's account of weaving a red madder-dyed 2/2 twill wall hanging for the Jorvik Viking Centre, modeled on a Coppergate textile, and Nancy McKenna's article on medieval color-and-weave (plaid) textiles with drawdowns of London finds. Charles Kightly surveys textile wall hangings in late medieval York wills and inventories (tapestries, says, painted cloths, embroidered hangings, prices, hanging methods). Other items cover woad pigment, a Renaissance cheese, and Carolyn Priest-Dorman's article on Icelandic shaggy supplementary-weft pile cloaks, with a weaving reconstruction, bibliography and a catalogue of finds.

Issue 29 (September 2001) of the Complex Weavers Medieval Textiles Study Group newsletter, devoted to natural dyeing. It gives recipes and notes for woad (pigment and leaf vats), weld (including its medieval sources and overdyeing to greens and oranges), madder (mordant and temperature experiments, including an iron mordant), buckthorn and black walnut. It also has short news items, upcoming events, a call for samples for a sample calendar, and a piece on finding grants. Three scanned dye sample cards at the end show woad, madder/walnut/buckthorn and weld results on various yarns.

Issue 30 (December 2001) of the Complex Weavers Medieval Textiles Study Group newsletter. It includes an article on Oriental carpets (yarns, dyes, looms, and their depiction in Italian paintings) and Carolyn Priest-Dorman's article on medieval figured linen weaves, with drafts for the Vatican Coptic huck, the Sluier van Maria, goose-eye and lozenge twills, and the shroud of St. Bernard of Clairvaux. It also starts a Weaver's Compendium project of about 83 documented weave structures, with sample photos and drafts, and has a Priest-Dorman update on Icelandic pile weaving, member sample data sheets (broken diamond twill from Coppergate, plaid, warp float pattern), upcoming events, and a call for calendar samples.

Issue 31 (March 2002) of the Complex Weavers Medieval Textiles Study Group newsletter. It includes Carolyn Priest-Dorman's article on multishaft self-patterned linen weaves (point-repeat lozenge twills and pavy liseré) with drafts, Nancy McKenna's pieces on purpura and on 1.2 weft-faced compound twills (samitum, S4 and proto-lampas) with drafts, and Alexandria Abarria's article on cloth of gold, gold threads and velvet. The issue also has a coordinator's message, sample photos from a weave-structure compendium, upcoming events, a sample exchange call, and a word search.

Issue 32 (June 2002) of the Complex Weavers Medieval Textiles Study Group newsletter. It includes an illustrated article on traditional Indian block printing with natural dyes by a Mumbai printer, the coordinator's news (a lecture on the search for Genghis Khan's tomb, a Fabric Fair talk on printed fabrics, and historic church vestments), and Alexis Abarria's account of researching and documenting handweaving for SCA arts and sciences competitions. Nancy McKenna's article on the pallium examines how bishops' vestments in the San Vitale mosaics, the Bayeux Tapestry, the seal of Thomas Becket and the paliotto of St. Ambrose signal political legitimacy. The issue closes with exhibition listings, the December sample exchange, a for-sale/swap notice and an obituary of dye author James Liles.

Issue 33 (September 2002) of the Complex Weavers Medieval Textiles Study Group newsletter. The main article by Carolyn Priest-Dorman discusses kruiswerk, a figured linen weave, and presents a 12-shaft draft of a c. 15th-century textile (Tx 60) from the Abbey of St. Truiden, Belgium, linking it to the 'crosse werk' of the 1456 London weavers' ordinances. The coordinator's news covers the Shroud of Turin restoration, the Genghis Khan tomb expedition, digitized Gutenberg and Vatican manuscripts, and the Halmyris martyrs' tombs. Other items include part III of a tapestry-weave sample series, a Weavers' Gallery of reconstructed cloth and pouches, a review of Fustat Finds, upcoming exhibitions, and a call for samples.

Issue 34 (December 2002) of the Complex Weavers Medieval Textiles Study Group newsletter. It includes Jan Ward's account of weaving and testing a wool sample for a 14th-century Greenland-style cotehardie, Cerise Moodey's overview of fiber arts at the SCA's Pennsic event, and Alexis Abarria's annotated bibliography on medieval weaving, twills and band weaving. It also has a weaving-term crossword, upcoming museum exhibitions, photos with details of a lozenge twill dress, and the coordinator's news with survey results and plans for future issues.

Issue 35 (March 2003) of the Complex Weavers Medieval Textiles Study Group newsletter. It includes Carolyn Priest-Dorman's analysis of two irregular medieval pavy weaves (gebrochene structures) from a Middelburg antependium and a linen fragment from St. Truiden, with drafts. It also has Nancy Arthur Hoskins's article on Coptic tapestry-taqueté textiles and her recreation, Cerise Moodey's introduction to cardweaving with warping instructions, and Joanne Burrows's account of weaving linen 'Perugia towels' with diamond twill ground and brocaded borders. The issue closes with a chairperson's column, a comic strip about a medieval cloth merchant, upcoming exhibitions and a review of Mazzaoui's book on the Italian cotton industry.

A compilation by Nancy M. McKenna of the monthly newsletter Handweaving News, written by Detroit weaving teacher Nellie Sargent Johnson from the 1930s to the 1950s. It opens with a short biography of Johnson and a history of the Sears Hearthside Loom. The bulk is reprinted newsletter issues with lessons on design, color, key drafts and threading drafts for overshot, summer and winter, crackle, M's and O's, Bronson, lace weaves and double weave. Other issues cover soumak, flossa and rya rugs, Peruvian and Guatemalan textiles, laid-in techniques, belts, looms, and weaving as a business, with many draft and technique diagrams.

A compiled set of writings by Nancy M. McKenna on Nellie Sargent Johnson (1887-1951), Detroit weaver, teacher and editor of the newsletter Handweaving News (1933-1951). It includes a short biography covering her education, teaching at Wayne University, her 1939 Peruvian textile collecting, and her design of the Sears Hearthside loom. A history of the Sears Hearthside looms (2-, 4- and 6-shaft models, 1940s-1950s catalogs, and the question of who manufactured them) follows, with a reproduced Sears Hearthside loom and accessories catalog section. The document ends with an index of Handweaving News issues by month from 1933 to 1951, listing topics, and of Johnson's self-published monographs.

A short biography of Nellie Sargent Johnson (1887-c.1950s), a Detroit weaver, teacher and editor of the newsletter Handweaving News. It covers her education, early dietetics career, weaving instruction at Wayne State, her 1939 Peru trip and collection of ancient and modern Peruvian textiles, and her death after a hip fracture. A closing section describes the Sears Hearthside looms she designed (rigid heddle and six-shaft folding floor loom), their catalog history from 1940 to 1953, and evidence that the Pope Machine Company of Kankakee manufactured them.